Study of the influence of black dyes in the mechanical behaviour of agend silk fabrics

Autores UPV
Año
CONGRESO Study of the influence of black dyes in the mechanical behaviour of agend silk fabrics

Abstract

The conservation of black silk textiles has been challenging throughout history. Recipes to achieve stable and bright black colors were usually extremely complex, and combined a great number of different dyestuffs and mordants. Previous research on the chemical and physical behavior of black silks obtained with certain tannins have evidenced an increase of silk¿s stiffness depending on both the inherent characteristics of dyestuff itself as well as on the pH of the dying solution. The aim of this research is to study the chemical and physically behavior of dyed black silk as a func-tion of different dyestuffs (i.e.: logwood and tannis) and mordants before and after artificial aging by UV radiation/light. For this purpose, black dyed silk reference materials were prepared in the laboratory fol-lowing historic recipes and formulations. A multi-method approach that combines colorimetric measure-ments, pH surface analysis and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy is proposed together with uniaxial tensile tests to monitor eventual changes in the strength, stiffness and elongation at break of unaged and aged black silk samples when changes in the chemical structure of dyed silk take place after artificially accelerated aging.